Keep a cork puller in your kitchen drawer, and you’ll never be more than a minute away from an open bottle of wine.

Our wine columnist has opened thousands of bottles, and the Durand has never failed her. Needed in every oenophile’s arsenal: The Durand corkscrew and puller for fragile wine corks.

“An ah-so is ideal for older bottles, which may have corks that are breaking down,” says wine pro Derrick Westbrook of Chicago, curator of this month’s Eater Wine Club wines.

Like most wine lovers, I have a kitchen drawer overflowing with corkscrews, cork pullers, foil cutters to remove the paper covering and expose the cork so that I can use a cork puller, at least ...